Interesting places / Oñati: History and Events

City: Oñati



HISTORY


In the history of Guipuzcoa, Oñati is one of the few towns that has enjoyed full rights and privileges since the middle of the 19th century, and one of the few villas de señorío to exist in the Basque Country.

Located in the heart of the Spanish Basque Country, it is nestled in a beautiful valley surrounded on all sides by verdant mountains, except to the south, where it is flanked by the Aloña limestone massif (1,324 m). In the Basque language, Oñat i means: place with many hills, a fitting name, as any visitor to the area can attest.

For many centuries Oñati was a villa de señorío, and then later a county. This meant that the Señor or local nobleman enjoyed a series of rights with which the inhabitants had no choice but to comply. The prevailing political system during that era meant that the Señor or Count of Oñati enjoyed absolute authority: collecting both civil and ecclesiastical taxes, appointing the mayor and abbot, dispensing justice and commanding the troops recruited in times of war, etc.

The Vela family, and later the Guevaras, were the two main dynasties. Their principal abode was Guevara Castle in Araba, on the other side of the Artía mountains, right on the border. The 14th century Zumelzegui Tower is a symbol of the Counts' power, and still stands on a rise overlooking the town centre as a magnificent example of an early medieval tower, from the time of the bandit wars.

The inhabitants of Oñati were always unruly and often fought against their overlord with the few weapons in their possession. The history of Oñati from the earliest recorded documents until the 17th century is a saga of the town's continuous struggle to free itself from the power of the local Counts. Historically, we know that in 1389 the inhabitants revolted, demanding greater freedom.

The revolt failed, but the inhabitants' demands continued. During the 15th century, the overlord was forced to allow the townsfolk to appoint the ordinary mayor by popular vote, although he retained the authority to confirm the appointment and continued to appoint another mayor, the higher mayor.

The true struggle against the Counts began during the 16th century, and was led by the council and ecclesiastical chapter. When they realised that violent confrontation would get them nowhere, they decided to redirect their efforts towards the law, and from 1540 onwards, they brought their case before the highest courts in the land, demanding that the town or villa be incorporated into Guipúzcoa, thereby sharing in the rights and privileges of that region.

The dispute lasted until 1652, when the townsfolk finally lost. However, political ideas continued to evolve and the Guevaras found favour at Court and rose in station, which in turn took the family further away and made them less jealous of their rights. Finally, in the 18th century, the anti-overlord policies of the reigning dynasty enabled the Oñati Council to play an increasingly important role in the government of the town without the need for new lawsuits


EVENTS


Local celebrations in Oñati are deeply-rooted in the traditional culture. The main events are those related to the religious and agrarian calendars: Christmas/Olentzero, Carnivals, Corpus Christi Day and Saint Michael's / Our Lady of the Rosary's Day. The first two are organised according to fairly conventional models, while the last two contain more original and peculiar aspects.


Corpus Christi day - A medieval celebration


The Corpus Christi day was originally a modest celebration dating from the Middle Ages that became one of the most important parts of the catholic liturgy. The procession in Oñati consisted of floating figures, farces played on carts, musicians, dancers, brotherhoods, guilds and civil and religious authorities, all sprinkled with a lively baroque sense of choreography.

Apart from the religious features, the celebration is also based on another three elements: firstly, the Brotherhood of the Holy Sacrament, with all the brothers parading after their standard, holding oil lamps and wearing grey-brown cloaks; secondly, the embodiment of Christ, the Apostles and Saint Michael, with their wigs, masks and insignias (the patron saint of Oñati, Saint Michael Archangel being especially majestic and military); and finally, the dancers that surround the entire procession as a symbol of respect and joy, both characteristic features of this celebration. On Corpus Christi day, the Kontrapas, Makildantza and Arkudantza are guaranteed to please, delight and fascinate anyone interested in local customs and traditions.


San Michael's Day


Saint Michael's Day and our Lady of the Rosary's Day, together with their respective bixamonak are the scene for a large number of cultural and leisure events: concerts, drum concerts, brass bands and conferences, etc. However, two of these events are an absolute must: the Herri Eguna and the International Sheepdog Trials.

The Herri Eguna or National Day is a tribute to the local agricultural tradition, with vegetable, fruit, cattle and cheese contests, craftwork exhibitions, Basque songs, Basque dances, popular street dances and much, much more, all accompanied by traditional spicy sausages, cider and consommé.


The International Sheepdog Trials


The International Sheepdog Trials offer the best chance to see magnificent displays of skill as the dogs chase their flocks into the fold. It is curious that the highpoint of these celebrations, the bixamonak (or days after), originally thought of as days for relaxation and recovery after the excesses of the previous days, are now the busiest times of the festivities.



All the texts and images thanks to Oinati.org



Photo of Oñati: History and Events